“Oh, why can’t we break away from all this, just you and I, and lodge with my fleas in the hills? I mean, flee to my lodge in the hills”
S.J. Perelman, Will B. Johnstone, and Arthur Sheekman, Monkey Business
We’re back from a hectic and fun trip to the city of Pune which lies to the West of India, and is often referred to as the culture capital of Maharashtra, the Queen of the Deccan, and the Oxford of the East. The Oxford of the East because of the numerous educational institutions there which draw students from around the world. A beautiful city, pleasant weather and nice folk, polite and chilled to the T, it’s a city that charms you. Pune is known for it’s bakeries like the Kayani Bakery, Baker’s Basket, Budhani Wafers, Dorabjee Bakery and and also the German Bakery. The last one was tragically targeted recently by terrorists who planted a bomb there, and is now shut.
Pune was the largest military base for the British during the Raj and the architecture in the cantonment area is evocative of that era.We stayed over at my SILs near the cantonment area in Pune, and were won over by the architecture which was reminiscent of the bygone colonial British Raj. Pune serves as the headquarters for the Southern Command of the Indian Army, and is also known for the National Defence Academy which is an integrated military training center which provides joint training for cadets of the Army, the Navy and the Air Force.
We were fortunate enough to do a recce of the National Defence Academy thanks to my BIL. Situated at Khadakvasla, about an hours drive from Pune, the NDA is a prestigious establishment visited by top dignitaries and leaders of the world which include the Shah of Iran, The King of Greece, and the Queen of England amongst others. Official menu cards of meals when the dignitaries were hosted are framed along the walls of the huge dining halls, and were an absolute treat to see.
At the end of the visit we were treated to delicious tall glasses of cold coffee and Shrewbury biscuits, which is often customary for visitors there. The NDA is known for it’s signature cold coffee, and the city of Pune for these Shrewsbury biscuits. These biscuits are possibly the most famous in India, made by artisinal bakeries across the city, and are often referred to as the soul of Pune. The most famous bakery in Pune is the Kayani Bakery which was started by Hormuz and Khodayar Irani in 1955. They had emigrated from Iran before 1947 with a group of people, many of whom settled in Pune and began the business of bakeries.
A visit to the Shinde Chhatri, regarded as one of the finest examples of Rajasthani architecture, is a must if you are in Pune. It is a memorial dedicated to the great warrior Mahadji Shinde, and still sports ancient fan regulators and light switches which transport you to an era gone by. The guide cum keeper is an old man who has been here for the past 13 years, and the entry ticket is for just Rs 2 ($1=Rs44).
Built in 1794, it is situated a few kilometers from the Pune Turf Club, and exudes calm and tranquility.The architecture is absolutely amazing, and has withstood the passage of time beautifully.
It is this exquisite architecture which is the major attraction. The exterior is intricately carved to perfection. The entrance gates are made of iron and look majestic. They lead one down into the annals of history. The hall is spacious with antique lamps, colored glass panes, marble flooring, and stone pillars which transport one to the past. The walls are decorated with beautiful floral designs and carvings which make them look decorative. The windows have a mini balcony, a typical feature of Rajasthani architecture.
While there, we were hosted for lunch by my BIL and SIL at the Pune Turf Club House, also known as the Western India Turf Club. It offers serene colonial splendour in ever step … from the well looked after chandeliers, the wooden panelleing, the cane furniture, the long cool corridors, to the liveried waiters! The menu is reflective of the influence the British Raj had on the cuisine and culture of this city. We had roasted chicken, steamed vegetables and mashed potatoes, and the kids had fish and chips. The ambience left a lilting feeling in the heart and soul!
… To make our trip complete, my nephew drove us to Mahabaleshwar, one of the most popular hill stations in Maharashtra. I will cover that in a later post.
