‘Comfort food is the food that makes us feel good, satisfied, calm, cared for and carefree. It’s food that fills us up emotionally and physically. Finding comfort in food is a basic human experience.’
Ellie Krieger
First thoughts that swept through my head as we entered the Pepsico factory in Dhulagarh near Kolkata, a much anticipated trip into a promising kitchen. Hello Kurkure, have I missed you! It’s been a few years since I dived into a bag. One crunchy bite later, nostalgia flooded my soul, that old familiar taste that had serenaded me for several years. I was back! With an eclectic group of about a dozen ‘foodies’ flown specially into Kolkata, we warmed up to each other over the hours drive to the factory. That drive was anything but mundane, action packed, but that’s a story for another day…A friend recently said to me that his entire family was addicted to Kurkure for 8 long years, and that’s quite a similar story across households in India. Kurkure, in hindi means crisp, now PepsiCos most most loved voted snacking brand in the Indian market, is a favourite with Indians across the globe. For me, a once in a blue moon guilty step off my routine. There I was to discover that there’s so much more to the brand than just the snack. A brand that is constantly reinventing itself, attempting also to constantly improve nutritionally. It also makes great breakfast oats, one of my most favourite pantry ingredients.
They’ve got the spice mix and product bang on! With 30 snacking options, Kurkure forms an iconic part of Indian food culture, a deep connect & nostalgia since being introduced in 1999. This entirely indigenous brand, made with trusted kitchen ingredients like rice, oil, corn, gram & spices, Kurkure has constantly re-invented itself to sustain its relevance to Indian culture and the Indian ethos. Yet the story is more than the plant producing snacks. It’s the larger picture of social responsibility that appealed to me, and that made the visit so worthwhile.With the popularity of Kurkure, came many myths about the ingredients, about how good it might or might not be! One trip to the fully automated snack plant in Dhulbari proved otherwise. Prepared most hygienically in a state of art plant, it hits the spot for comfort food with the right spice blends and flavours. All ingredients in the Kitchen of lays are carefully sourced, efficiently managed and well stocked. It has now entered the traditional namkeens area which is proving to be equally popular!
And then there is the Kitchen of Lays. Another heartening story right from the potato being germinated up to the chips that get sealed into bags, it’s a fascinating adventure. Overcoming challenges like a not a well developed supply chain, small land holdings, marginal farmers, loads of wastage etc, the company offers community support especially to farmers right from word go offering careful handling and the right variety of seeds. India is the only country outside of the US, where potato germ plasma and mini tuber are grown in greenhouses in Punjab. To help farmers minimize losses due to vagaries of nature, the company offers weather forecasts in collaborative farming to 24K farmers in the country. The partnership offers a 360 degree of engagement with best agronomy practices, soft loans, crop insurance, high quality seeds for better yields etc.To think that much and more goes into the making of a mere pack of chips is a somewhat enlightening experience. Following the journey of the humble potato from a germ plasma to the fryer was fascinating. It makes the picture real, a story that comes alive with community collaborative farming, sustenance, social responsibility, good practices, the right potato and an efficient system. An automated system that works with precision, infra red sensors that pick out the slightest anomaly, dedicated happy workforce … and of course happy customers.Sustainable growth, community development and minimizing the impact on the environment is worthy of praise! We were fortunate to experience the facility first hand. Right from very passionate hands on managers, spirited workers, an efficient management system, the fully automated plant operates impressively. What amazes is that PepsiCo’s growth in India has been guided by a philosophy of “Performance with Purpose”, the goal to deliver top-tier financial performance while creating sustainable growth. In practice, Performance with Purpose means providing a wide range of foods and beverages from treats to healthy eats; finding innovative ways to minimize their impact on the environment, providing a safe and inclusive workplace for employees globally; and respecting, supporting and investing in the local communities where they operate. For instance, in 2009, PepsiCo India achieved a significant milestone by becoming the first business to achieve ‘Positive Water Balance’ in the beverage world, a fact verified by Deloitte Touché Tohmatsu India Pvt. Ltd. The company has been Water Positive since then. The Kaizen quality and productivity initiative where everyone is empowered, motivated and encouraged to add value contributes to safety, quality and productivity. With initiatives like that and three planks of renewable energy systems in place, for eg rice husk that generates steam to heat oil, or then frying that gives flash steam than runs a system to generate electricity, it’s hard to look at the packet of Lays or Kurkure the same way again. They just mean so much more now!
Thank you for opening your home and hearts to us Pepsico India!
{Photo courtesy Karan Bhujbal}
“Every dreamer knows that it is entirely possible to be homesick for a place you’ve never been to, perhaps more homesick than for familiar ground.”
Judith Thurman
This year has been a bit of a travel story. Yet when food meets regional cuisine, it cooks up a charming new story each time not matter which part of the world you go to. India is no different, but it is much more complex. Every city surprises you with so much variety that regional cuisine takes up a new avatar. A trip to Lakshman Sagar in Rajasthan early this year, then a much planned and absolutely exciting trip into Banaras the next month filled my head with stories, the camera with images that would live to tell the tale, and the stomach so full. As if that wasn’t enough, there was one more trip that was surreal.This one. To Karaikudi. What’s that? Where? Huh? Those were the questions folk asked when they heard the 3 of us, Sanjeeta, Madhuli and I were bound for the Chettinad region. It’s not everyday that one would head to Karaikudi, a city buried deep down south, an overnight train journey from Chennai. To be honest, it was a pretty hair-brained plan, a plan to shop, eat, to catch up with each other after we met at the IFBM 2 years ago. Also a plan to explore a region that had long fascinated me, with stories from Sanjeeta who’d been there several times. I had dreamt about it for a few years.Nothing prepares you for what you might see, or rather experience in this region. As the train slowed down entering the suburbs of Puddukotai, we got a tiny glimpse – an abandoned mansion, tall pillars, arches, tiled roof, large yard, hidden stories, right in the middle of nowhere! As the train pulled into Chettinad, a neat little almost private station, it’s a different time zone altogether. Alongside the station lies the former resting house of the Raja of Chettinad, and you enter a fascinating part of history.
Slow country life, no one in a hurry, gentle quiet folk, the echo of chai/coffee, sun already sharp 7am, azure blue skies, monkeys bouncing off trees. History greets you as you hit the highway. In the distance the Thirumayam Fort, a fortress built by the Raja of Ramnad in 1687 stands tall. Next to it, a rock cut temple. Karaikudi the biggest city in Sivaganga district is known as the capital of Chettinad, because of the predominance of the ‘Nattu Kottai Chettiars’. This elite business community, a prosperous group of bankers/money lenders, expanded their business to South and South East Asia in the 19th and 20th century, mainly towards Ceylon and Burma. Changing winds of trade and world politics eventually led them backto India, where they made this their traditional base.This 600 acre region is home to 74 villages. Barren roads, scant traffic, an odd scooter/moped, cattle, laid back lifestyle, huge mansions, local Chettinad food and temples dominate the landscape. Paddy fields, fresh ground spices, temples, tall trees, tiled roofs, community water tanks, roosters, cattle, peacocks pretty much make up the local environment. And those mansions! That is possibly the most fascinating part of the Chettinad, a rich cultural heritage hidden deep in South India.
While the area is dotted by almost 20,000 massive mansions, most have fallen to decay. Stripped by greedy antique dealers, locked over custody battles, or just plain abandoned, a few have been painstakingly restored to their former glory. Painstakingly indeed because it is no minor task given the power, opulence and finances this money lending community enjoyed. One such lovingly restored residence is the Chidambaram Vilas, a luxury heritage property near Karaikudi, that we experienced on our short visit there.
The heritage rooms at Chidambara Vilas recreates the ambience of authentic Chettiar lifestyles. This is visible in the attention to details, from the vintage hand operated panka fans to even the switches which are designed in a format from a previous era. This is also reflected in the furnishings to the lighting and the design elements like Athangudi tiles, the wooden roofing and panelling. The rooms at Chidambara Vilas are the most authentic Chettiar experience available today, and is the result of a painstaking effort at renovation, which involved the use of innovative and creative techniques to blend old world charm without compromising on luxury.
One step into the cool interiors of Chidambaram Vilas, the reception yielding way to covered corridors, stone courtyards, fine wood work, Italian marble, carved beams in Burma teak, handmade tiles, egg white washed walls, fine chandeliers, grandfather clocks. You know this is something special, maybe more than special. The interiors aren’t very flashy yet scream good quality and craftsmanship, refined taste and a subdued grandeur reflective of the Chettiars. Tranquility defined our stay there, a strange peace and quiet that one craves for. The perfect symmetry held my attention, the intricate designs mesmerising. Pillars, wooden beams, tiles, stained glass, doors, chairs, windows, arches – everything handcrafted in beautiful patterns. Unbelievable. The aesthetics, the colour palette, the soothing marble meets wood and wood meets marble.
The sheer scale of near royal magnificence cannot be put into words. I tried to capture some of this well restored heritage property that took about 3 years to be brought back to its former glory. There are a clutch of heritage properties that operate out of restored mansions in the region. Staying here comes at a bit of a cost, but it’s justified. You won’t find this anywhere in the world.It’s difficult to imagine that some of the finest residential properties of the world are nested here in a rather unknown corner of the world. Every minute here was worth our time. Here just for 2 days and a night, we decided to make most of our precious trip. Cuisine, architecture and temples are the three things that seem to define Chettinad.
A temple every 200 yards or so, and a good chance of coming eye to eye with a rooster in the next! Tea and coffee roadside shacks, deep fried snacks, palm jaggery, rangolis, fresh produce, flowers to offer God, water bodies, well laid out roads, old mansions, simple folk, cows, cricket, so much in this scorching heat. Oh yes, and little kids dressed in their Sunday best for the quintessential temple visit.
India is absolutely fascinating! We immersed ourselves in the ambiance, authentic and exciting, both at Chidambaram Vilas and driving around the region. The Chettinad belt is possibly most famous across the world for its cuisine as the Chettiars specialised in good food. The most famous of course is the Chettinadu Chicken Curry for which we had a masterclass at Chidambaram Vilas. My other companions, vegetarians to boot, were ready to devour the curry once made as it smelt SO GOOD. Of course I came back and stirred one at home, and will share the chefs version soon. The Chettinadu Chicken Curry is as simple as it is flavourful. Very frugal, basic pantry ingredients resulted in delicious curry, finger licking good curry! As characteristic of regional Indian cuisine, every household has its own version.The women of the community were instrumental to managing the vast estates and running kitchens, often while the men were away. Easily available local spices and ingredients, traditional cooking methods and a deep interest in food led to a vast repertoire of recipes collectively called Chettinad cuisine. Chettinad chicken is the regions most popular export to the culinary world, and it was nowhere fiery and spicy as I believed. A traditional recipe, it is made with very basic ingredients, spice mixes from roasted spices, ginger, garlic, shallots, tomatoes, curry leaves and of course coconut paste. Meals served Chettiar style, on banana leaves, make up a typical lunch meal, as lavish and as filling as it sounds. Beginning with a rasam, drumstick or beetroot, a sweet rice offering, a line of kuttoos, pickles, chutneys, papad, crispy fried banana chips, dal vada, rice, sambhar, quintessential drizzle of ghee, fried fish, yogurt raita, a sago pudding or payasam to finish. The helping might be just a tbsp each, yet by then end of the meal you can barely move. We retired to our room for an hour, and then set out under the blazing sun to look around Karaikudi. A visit to the local market was delightful. Small scale sellers, FRESH greens, organic produce, a very ‘farm to table’ slow living existence. They are a self sufficient community. You find everything and more there. Vegetables, sacks of spices, coconuts, coconut graters, rope, cast iron pans, woven baskets, pickling jars.A step deeper into the market into dusty unnamed by-lanes revealed treasures we’ve been waiting for. Karaikudi is virtually a shoppers paradise for vintage lovers and collectors. It’s not easy to get around and communicate as language is a hindrance so do get a good local guide {or a willing local friend as was our case}. Begin walking and wander around nameless little alleyways, up nondescript staircases, into dusty rooms and keep your eyes open. You never know what you might spot! Kitchen collectibles is what we went for, and that we got plenty of, or rather saw!Enamelware by the truckload, every shape and size makes your heartbeat race, race too quick. Yet there is only that much you can stuff into a suitcase, so it’s more a feast for your eyes. Rows upon rows of kitchenware which once made up dowry for new Chettiar brides line every nook and corner. Nothing comes cheap anymore. Different quality cook and serve ware demands different prices, including fine quality enamelware from Sweden and Czechoslovakia. Most enamelware was never used, still with labels on from a 100 years ago, as it didn’t suit local traditional cooking methods. It was local tradition to gift the Chettiar bride fine imported enamelware, crystal, silverware etc. Most enamelware has landed up in sheds for sale. There was loads of brass ware too as it is hardly used in houses now, stainless steel having won the battle of modern day cookware!
Most shops are a cornucopia of everything. An odd chandelier hangs lonely from the ceiling, a rocking chair high up on a shelf, enamelware and earthenware mixed up, some china that’s lost its family, odd pieces, dust laden. Family portraits dumped into large rooms, once lovingly shot in studios and framed for grand walls, now on sale without buyers. Every piece had perhaps a hidden story of glorious days gone by, days that fell to nought with depleting fortunes.
The second world war called an end to the golden age of the Chettiar moneylenders as local politics meant the shut down of banking businesses in Myanmar, Burma etc. Their massive fortunes disappeared overnight, the community forced to return to India. While they still are a very influential banking community in India, especially down south, those days of glory never returned. Large hand crafted iron keys and infinite heavy safes in all sizes and dimensions stand silent testimony to the times gone by. You can imagine the fortunes they guarded!Early morning we attempted to see sunrise from the rooftop of the Chidambaram Vilas. Up a spiral stairwell in pitch dark, the seemingly never-ending stone steps were like a page out of an Enid Blyton book, mysterious and almost claustrophobic. One step onto the rooftop of and it was just another world. The tops of the Vilas bathed in early morning light were a stunning sight. Beautiful architecture, palatial mansions as far as the eye could see. Most of them abandoned, in a state of neglect, yet the vastness of the community in good times was palpable. Each house has its own architecture, its individual character, bits and bobs from Ceylon, maybe Burma. Yet most big mansions follow a similar basic layout. An external entrance area/courtyard, a reception, an inner enclosed hallway, then maybe a private courtyard bathed in sunlight often covered by grills, surrounded my numerous living quarters, separate dining areas for every course, outhouses for staff, community and private kitchens etc.
The houses hold hidden tales of the golden years, of untold riches, of classy extravagance beyond belief. Just when you think you’ve seen it all, you wake up to the foolish knowledge that this is just the tip of the iceberg. Most mansions are jaw dropping from within. One such house we stopped by to see was Laxmi Vilas, which has been maintained like a local museum and charges a fee to look around. Quite an unassuming property, a small entrance right on the street, yet one step within and it’s like entering a period home where India meets Europe.
Italian marble, mirrors from Belgium, Belgian tiles that cover the floor and ceiling, gold touched fittings, hand painted frescoes both from Europe and local mythology, Burma teak pillars. Outer courtyards that yield way to inner courtyards, that further yield way inner most courtyard, doors with numbers, tiles that celebrate an era of plenty, dining rooms to seat hundreds, with wooden beams and high ceilings, woodwork on wooden ceilings that feel like a church in England, stained glass, doors and windows that open in all directions. Some opening into outhouses, huge community kitchens, everything reflecting meticulous planning and superior quality. There was a method to the design, deeply thought and well executed. Every door and window made to exact specs, hand-carved wooden beams, etched glass, murals. The mind wonders, ‘HOW? How was so much even possible?’ Prime teak from Burma was tied to ships sailing across high seas and delivered to Indian shores, well seasoned by sea water along the way. The teak still stands tall. The same for spiral wrought iron staircases from Manchester. Failing fortunes meant a generation of artisans lost, livelihoods lost to politics of the world.Yet another heritage property we stopped by was Visalam. That is another stunning ‘experience hotel, an 80 year old traditional home built by a father as a gift for his daughter. It has a hugely colonial feel to it, yellow verandahs, bougainvilleas, water harvesting pots, shaded courtyards, lush green lawns, a traditional kitchen and master classes, an in house baker, a spiral staircase imported from Manchester, big game room drenched with rays of the setting sun, Belgian mirrors, vintage Phillip radio, old ceiling fans, board games – every detail so fascinating. We were invited to Visalam for a meal, but with our tight schedule all we managed was a hurried cup of coffee, a delicious wholewheat banana cashew loaf cake baked inhouse, and addictive paniyarams served in a quaint poolside cafe. Bliss! Such a pretty place, and so vastly different from the others. So much character! Most luxury properties built pools later; that was not part of local culture a 100 years ago.Most villages with mansions are well laid out, in a grid system, where often it is one mansion per street. A look down and you can see the whole house, one end to the other, then visualise what lies behind the tall stone walls. Several garage doors, doors to outhouses, little balconies all open into side streets.
The main porch shines like a beacon and opens into the main street. The richer the Chettiar, the bigger his mansion, the closer it often is to the center of the village. The centre often has a community water body, with a temple alongside. Interestingly, the region houses one little village that is under 100% CCTV coverage. The mansions here have too many valuables within to ship out, so this particular community got together to secure the village!In the short time we were in Karaikudi, we also managed a trip into Athangudi to see how floor tiles are made. Tile making here is a traditional local craft. Tiles handmade here are in vibrant colours, reflective of the rich cultural heritage of the Chettiar community. They have their own distinct charm.
It’s a fascinating process, a skill which is slowly fading away, yet is world famous. The tiles are handmade mixing white cement, sand and pigments, then poured into molds. With increasing wear and tear on Belgian tiles, it became expensive to constantly import them. That created a demand for local tiles, and the artisans believed that the earth from their land was best suited for these.
Designs from European tiles were replicated and mixed with local colours to develop a characteristic local specialty in dusty hot corrugated roofed sheds. These tiles are 100% handmade, eco friendly and are being used across hotels and homes in the region. The process is time consuming, labour intensive, and also a dying legacy due to limited artisans. They are quite expensive and have carved a small niche for themselves.
What we didn’t manage was to see was the weaving of cotton sarees that are special to the region, the kandaangis. In earthy bold hues like the colours of the rising and setting southern sun, orange, red and black dominate the weave. If Banarsi saris are inspired by the hues of sunrise, then the kandaangi weave truly meets the sun on the other side. A stop by the weavers was on our list of things to do, but we just couldn’t manage it. We’ll be back!Still we managed much more than we could ever imagine. 2 days can never be enough for a place as beautifully, and as historically and culturally rich like this. I’d definitely like to go back again, maybe when it is cooler. There’s so much more to explore, so many heritage sites in the region, ongoing ASI excavations, forts, temples, artisans, kitchens. Also so many more doors and windows, small things that fascinate me. Here are some I managed to capture.Incredible! Just so incredible!!
‘Welcome to Lakshman Sagar‘ greeted the well mannered, soft spoken and affable manager of the resort, Tejinder {aka Teji} as we alight from the car that drives us into the resort. Welcome to Lakshman Sagar where all you have to do is nothing. The words stayed in my head through our stay. They rang so true and make you want to celebrate all that they could possibly mean, and more!Nothing quite prepares you for the luxury and peace of Lakshman Sagar. Nothing at all. It caught me by surprise, a place I have been putting off visiting for over a year. Now I can’t wait to get back there again!! That’s just how good the resort is, the team that delivers their concept of “slow Living” like it should be. And the concept comes with oodles of down to earth luxury. Not rose tinted, not high heeled in any way. It’s down to earth good, and just the way I like love it. {Warning: Long post with loads of images}
It begins with the ease of getting to the resort. A 15 minute drive to Gurgaon station got us to the Ajmer Shatabdi which came on the dot on time. I wish Indian Railways was cleaner and the food was leaps better, but well that’s another story. Off at Ajmer, into the waiting car, it was a smooth, pleasant and quick hour and a half drive to the resort. The highway is amazing, possibly the best stretch of highways in India that I have driven along.Getting there was a breeze, and to welcome us was the most refreshing nimbu paani presented most beautifully in true Sewara style. That hospitality stayed through the visit, never wavering, never faltering, truly endearing.
At the fringe of the Badlands of India, Lakshman Sagar was built in the late 19th century as a hunting lodge by the then Thakur of Raipur, Lakshman Singh Ji to host other noble families and British emissaries. As a continuation of the hospitality and traditions of the House of Raipur; Sewara has envisioned a getaway much like Thakur Lakshman Singh Ji, though with a conservationist view of the heritage and surroundings.The first thing that catch your attention are two heritage buildings standing tall to welcome you. The Zanana (women) quarters and Mardana (men) quarters, designed historically for the ladies and men respectively, offer hints to Rajput culture and traditional customs like pardah or reflecting the grandeur of mehfils & baithak. Seeped in history, every corner of Lakshman Sagar depicts the nuances of hunting holidays during the days of the Raj. From the machans used for tiger spotting to the man-made lake to attract game, great care has been taken to restore the priceless heritage.The re-conceptualization of Lakshman Sagar is manifested through the endless detailing in the architecture & design, the cuisine, and the well-thought of activities & non-activities tailored personally for the guests in a captivating natural topography, ideal for mindless relaxation. Things that impressed – bespoke services, local and sustainable processes, loads of thought in everything on site, a team effort, very knowledgeable staff. Also that the furniture, coasters, ash trays etc are all made in house.As Teji walked us around the beautifully maintained 32 acre property, I could not help but marvel at the attention to detail . Keeping local traditions in mind, 12 mud cottages dot the property, each delightfully designed and each offering the privacy you would never expect. One step into our cottage and I knew instantly what makes Lakshman Sagar so special. That the interiors use only locally sourced products, be it the stone walls or the rock cut basin in the washrooms, the rock cut pool individual pool outside each room, to bottles for water, copper glasses for water, oil cans, native linen, bric a brac from Rajasthan, the list is endless.
The 12 cottages have been meticulously planned and conceptualized with assistance from the vanguards of sustainable design – architects, Vasant & Revathi Kamat and designer duo Sahil & Sarthak. Merging Rajasthani design with eco sensibility,the twelve 900 sq ft mud and stone cottages, supplement the Mardana and Zanana and invoke an experience both private and symbiotic with nature. Such a phenomenal job, one that you have to see to believe.
Just being there for 2 days was a life changing experience. Being in touch with nature, doing nothing that requires you to hurry, a complete bespoke experience. The high point of out first evening, the sun downer that is best seen for the rooftop of the Zanana. Where else can you get such a beautiful birds eye view of peacocks readying to fly back ‘home’ to a 300 year old banyan tree. It was fascinating to see them line up in their tens to literally go to a take off point, and fly the distance just before sun set. All this while enjoying the most delicious coffee, namakpaaraas and shakarpaaras that hit a nostalgic childhood note. The connect of the good old days is very alive.
Evening are lazily spent around a well lit bonfire just as it begins to get dark. The first night by the catchment was spent pretty much brushing up our star gazing skills with Teji sharing his infinite knowledge and we following one constellation to another. They do have a telescope up at the Zanana too, but it was unserviceable at the time. That didn’t matter as the night was clear and the stars shone bright! The other thing that shone bright was the food. Never ending goodness of local cuisine appeared at every course. Around the bonfire we enjoyed makki ke pappad, chicken and spinach pakoras with finger liking good chutneys, hari and imli ki chutney.
Just as we thought we couldn’t eat more, it was time for dinner. At Lakshman Sagar, the chefs take great pride in doing salads too, with everything locally sourced and beautifully plated.The vegetables are all sourced from their organic farm around the corner. Chutneys and achaars are a quintessential part of local Rajasthani cuisine, and there are more combinations than you can imagine. We had a different selection at every meal. Crisp fresh linen and possibly the biggest bed I have ever seen, ensured a sound restful sleep, only to be woken up by the calls of peacocks the next morning.
Not sure whether it is more fascination to see peacocks at sundown or at dusk and sunrise, yet we had all times of day leisurely covered. Just as first light hit the horizon, the peacocks flew back one by one from the tree to the hillside across the catchment, each calling the next. It was like the march of peacocks, and then they settled over this side for the day.
And if there are so many peacocks, can feathers be far behind? The daughter collected hundreds of feathers from across the property much to her glee. Nothing to do suited her just fine! She had a go at the potters wheel, also at fishing though she didn’t catch a single fish! We were told that you either need a ton of patience OR luck to catch one.
Before feathers and fishing, there was breakfast. It was delightful to put it mildly. I love the luxury of bespoke vacations. Eat when you like and what you like; also if need be, where you like! Everything is delivered with ease, efficiency and huge smiles. No one’s in a hurry, the pace is leisurely, which also means that you end up eating a lot. The good thing about slow living is that you walk a lot too, to burn it off.Breakfast day 1 was something like this – Fresh orange juice, maize dalia, googri {overnight soaked and cooked wheat kernels and horsegram}, sapota/cheeku jam, gum berry jam, fresh fruit, gur/jaggery, boora, honey, achaar, masala omelet, fire roasted tomato. Nothing refined or processed. Pertinently, every member of staff knows every ingredient, every dish, the origins as well as the recipe. That was quite intriguing!
Post the potters wheel and idling away angling, we languished by our pool back in the room for a bit.
It was difficult to put the camera down. I wish I had a lens for wildlife photography. My kit lens wasn’t the best for this, but we caught a few antelopes / neelgai by the waterhole, tried to catch the turtles in the catchment pool, and a few ducks too.
What the camera couldn’t capture, the mind certainly did. Birds we saw included the lapwing, spotted owl, kingfisher, egret, dove, green pigeon, comorant, wagtail, parrot, tern, swallow, heron, sunbird, babbler, robin, bulbul, wagtail, waterhen, starling, bee eater, koel and ducks of every kind. You can go bird watching and spot up to 150 different species. Dyal Singh, Teji’s deputy, is like a bird encyclopedia!
Amazingly it was time to eat again! Lunch was simple yet lavish – moongori sabzi, spring onion, methi aloo, a feta beet salad {the basil flavoured feta was locally made & divine}, sesame/til chutney, garlic chutney, mixed veg pickle, pomegranate raita, masoor dal, jowar roti, coriander pulao. Everything was freshly prepared and bursting with flavour. Ended with a chefs special sweet, ghewar, again a quintessential part of local cuisine.It’s always fun to drop by the local marketplace/business district to get a feel of any city, to discover it’s essence. Dyal Singh, was sweet enough to drive us there, stopping first at the local spice market. Since chilies were the only spice in season and being voraciously traded, that’s all the eye could see. What a splendid sight, made even better by a flock of sheep that came along. More entertainment. I’d never have thought that sheep eat chilies. They do, by the mouthfuls!! And they appeared to enjoy the mouthfuls they grabbed, until they were herded away.
We took a quick trip down to the local village in Raipur. It had the quintessential closeness of a small town feel as we walked through the narrow single lane market, much like a high street. The colours, the sights, the sounds, local language all fascinate.The shops were an eclectic mix of odds and ends. Who would expect a cold pressed sesame oil being milled freshly, a gun maker, a show maker and such shops rubbing shoulders along the street. Not much to shop here rather to my disappointment, actually nothing at all! Yet the walk through was quite an experience, a market held within two old city gates.Also within the gates was the privately owned Raipur Fort, one of the few such heritage sites that has royalty in residence. It’s a beautiful property but clearly in need of restoration as the unoccupied parts have fallen to ruins.Built in true traditional Rajasthani architecture, you can see remnants of royal days gone by, replete with jharokas, a sheesh mahal, domes, arches, stained glass and a beautiful stone courtyard. I believe they are looking to restore this portion to offer it as a heritage hotel in the region.
Also at the property was the sweet black royal filly Raj Rani who was quite pleased to have company. She was the sweetest little horse ever, nibbling away at my wrists and nuzzling my hands. Cacophony added to the otherwise peaceful surroundings with two geese cackling away quite loudly, clearly alarmed by our sudden appearance! I jumped off Dyal Singhs jeep to shoot a gypsy camp enroute too.We were soon on our away back to Lakshman Sagar to be greeted by a fragrant refreshing saffron basil cooler, AND fresh fish that had just been caught {much to the daughters horror who swore never to angle again!}. The fish was part of dinner served that night, but that wasn’t all.That evening saw more of what this beautiful resort offers. A qawwali by local musicians resonated through the night, touching our souls and offering the best of Rajasthani soul music. Rustic, deep throated and vibrant music echoed across the resort, as we headed for a live cooking class led by Teji and his master chef! It’s a great way to get close to local cuisine and see first hand what Indian cooking offers. There were guests from the UK as well, and they were clearly enjoyed the mogri beans, and rabdi pasta being stirred up. These dishes would soon be served up for dinner!While the remaining of dinner was being cooked in the kitchen, we sat around the well lit beautiful bonfire, enjoying starters. On the menu was a bbq chicken and tandoori cauliflower {gobhi} served with delicious chutneys again. Also rice papad. Dinner a short while later included haldi matar sabzi, dal, mogri, fish curry, rabdi pasta, and a pulao. Dessert was an earthy rustic atta jaggery halwa which was delicious to say the least!
Been a busy time since we got here to do nothing. This nothing got better and better. The next morning was to offer yet another highlight of our stay, a field breakfast.
Nothing prepares you for a peep into the local culture and lifestyle, and it was well managed by the team. It’s worth the 2 km walk across the rugged rocky terrain which lies just outside the property. What a pleasant morning it was!
The neatly laid tables and machans that greet you, the residents of the rural farm making fresh flatbread and buttermilk, tamatar ki chutney that’s just come off the fire, all make for quite a memorable experience.For me, also fascinating are home fires, traditional cooking methods, rural lifestyle that is hard to experience first hand and the ambiance of a local farm. To experience their lifestyle at such close quarters was another high-point of our visit. Sheep, goats, cows, puppies, birds, a 60ft well, fields of wheat and barley …Makai and aata flatbeads/roti, fresh homemade sweet butter, freshly churned buttermilk, choorma, masala chai and orange juice made for the most delicious breakfast at the farm. A relaxed walk back, an early lunch {yes food again}, and it was time to leave. We were warmly bid adieu by Teji, Dyal Singh and the team with a traditional serving of gur and dahi for a safe journey.With so much goodness packed into a rather productive weekend dong practically nothing, I know I’ll be back sooner or later. This is one glimpse of India that must be experienced at least once in a lifetime with Sewara. Down to earth, rustic yet luxurious goodness that was amazing!
“There is no creation without tradition; the ‘new’ is an inflection on a preceding form; novelty is always a variation on the past.”
Carlos Fuentes
It’s no secret that I love amassing kitchen collectibles, the incorrigible prop collector as it may be! It’s a passion I have stoked for years, even before the blog began, and I don’t see the passion diminishing. Glassware, ceramic, stoneware, metal ware all call my name, be it from India or overseas. It’s an obsession I try to tear myself away from, each piece has a story!
The house now resembles a museum of sorts, with old kitchen collectibles dotting nearly every visible space, yet I march on greedily at times! Nothing seems to stop me, the better half still as accommodating and indulgent as ever. My favourite medium remains metal ware. So I was elated when the good folk from Coppre asked if they could send me something from their collection. Yes please I said, I would be honoured!
Coppre … inspired by creating beautiful things. Objects that are crafted by hand embody a unique identity. And convey a special sense of purpose. We look at objects from yesteryears and marvel at the craftsmanship. It never ceases to amaze us how every utilitarian object had an element of ornamentation. And vice versa.So many handcrafting traditions have ceased to be. There were game changers. The colonisers, the industries. And today, the dynamics of a market driven economy.
… the plan. To reinvigorate. And make old artisan traditions come alive. That’s what we love to do. To make beautiful things, that matter. Things that are owned, treasured, loved and then passed on. Things that make you feel good and do good. Because it gives us joy. And purpose.
My love for Indian metal ware dates back to my first little copper tumbler I bought from Vishwanath ki gali in Benaras, now Varanasi. It’s been decades since I’ve visited but the Coppre jug brought a flood of memories back.
Make a morning ritual of drinking copper-charged water with the Terracopper Jug. With a combination of handbeaten etches and plain surface, the jug reveals the innate sheen of copper. The silhouette is inspired by the simplicity of earthern water jugs.
I used to religiously keep the little copper glass full of water every night and glug it down the copper-charged water first thing next morning. It was a ritual and held a deep connect with Benaras, where we spent most of our childhood summers. My daughter was there on a college trip last year; her sketches of Varanasi below captured some of my favourite memories….…and that resonates with what Coppre has done. It’s brought alive an age old tradition, breathed new life into a dying art, and they’ve done it with class. It’s the craftsmanship they have resurrected, hammered metal now so popular in the West, is available here. The possibilities are immense. Copper is a beautiful metal, artistic, long lasting and has great medicinal properties.To reconstitute and revive is the Coppre promise. To breathe new life into our heritage. What a beautiful journey they’ve undertaken. It’s no small task but look at how brilliant the beginning is. Because this is what they do best – design | craft | propagate. This will bring the spotlight back on our artisans, our craft, and our heritage. Do stop by and look at their range – everyday use, corporate gifting, wedding souveniers. It’s uplifting, it’s inspiring and it celebrates the revival of an almost lost art…
… and they do it in style. Beautiful craftsmanship, stunning finish, great packaging, thoughtful bag of polish, cloth bags to protect, useful instructions, international shipping. What more can one want ask for ….
ime for you and time for me, and time yet for a hundred indecisions, And for a hundred visions and revisions, before the taking of a toast and tea.”
T.S. Eliot
It was when ‘Tea & Poetry’ created magic. In the heart of Lutyens Delhi with Tom Alter and Anamika SinghsAnindini Himalaya Tea, monsoon winds, the 20th floor at Le Meridien, good folk, music too, life was good! So many shades of the uber talented actor, poet, writer Tom Alter and tea, so many!! The event ‘Reflections’ is part of the New Perspective event series, an initiative by the Le Meridien, New Delhi.
Tea was the call and the day couldn’t have begun any better. With Delhi now blessed with the monsoon winds and thundershowers at the blink of an eye, Anandini added deeply to the romance.
The romance that spells Delhi in the rains … the smell of wet earth, dark skies, pregnant clouds that threaten to burst, sudden downpours that catch you unaware, birds taking shelter on ledges … and of course that hot cup of tea! Traditionally chai, but TEA at Anindini created by the effervescent Anamika, tea taster and sommelier.If you thought it couldn’t get any better, hang on! It certainly did. Thespian actor and poet, Tom Alter, a name we grew up with, who played many a ‘sahib’ in Indian films and Indian freedom fighter Maulana Azad too, blended some evocative poetry with Anindini Himalaya Tea. His deep rich timeless voice made for perfect pairing, the man himself a charmer to boot!
Born and brought up in India, this son of American missionaries can easily pass off as a local. A brilliant command over urdu and english, the charming Tom held us in rapt attention. Such a beautiful evening. From TS Elliot to Ghalib, from the Beatles and Frank Sinatra to old Rajesh Khanna numbers, the man had us captivated. Absolute pleasure! And to add to the charm, there was Anindini in many different avatars.
“Tea for two or two for tea, me for you or you for me …” the narrative engaged us as the tea delighted. Tom divided the day into seven sessionss with a special tea blend for each. From the luxurious morning cup that gently awakens you to the second that relieves you of your sorrows, to the most needed post lunch afternoon digestive, tea came in many flavours … Rosehip & Chamomile, Rhododendron & Himalayan Tulsi, Rose Petals and Mint, Fire Flame Blush and Mint, Pomegranate Flowers and Himalayan Tulsi.All natural, Anindini presents the finest tea delicately paired with herbs and flowers from the Himalayas. Romantic, intriguing and refreshing. I loved the first serving of tea in tall flutes of cold mint and rose tea. Such a pretty sight to greet you, perfect for the early monsoon evening that we walked in on.
Tiny shots of brewed tea followed. You could pick out the slight undertones. We gleefully matched them with the fine print on the pretty containers, all colour coded! Tom Alters deep voice teased, mesmerised, cajoled, questioned the crowd. He held our rapt attention. Every now and then an applause would loudly break out, the gathering so appreciative of his immense talent, an encore heard every now and then!
He ended with tales of his childhood. His eyes gleamed with delight while recalling the memories of his mum’s fresh cinnamon buns on cold winter days when he returned from school. Those warm buns served with tea were the best thing ever. I knew just what he was talking about. These quick Cinnamon Buns are a favourite in our home too …
Couldn’t have asked for a better celebration for this not so humble anymore cuppa. Anindini attempts to redefine the humble chai. Tea that adorns a new garb. Tea, herb & flower blends tease the palette, surprise you with the pairing. Behind the venture, a passionate lady. Anindini Himalaya Tea reflects the depth and beauty that Anamika personifies. She is warm, affectionate, passionate, humble and dedicated. Her passion is what Anindini is about. Try a cuppa and you will see what I mean!
Thank you Le Meridien for hosting this beautiful evening and for taking the wonderful initiative. ‘Reflections‘, a perfect blend of tea and poetry, made for a great beginning! Thank you Anamika for having us over. And of course, thank you Tom for making the evening magical!
“Each culture is known by it’s culinary traditions”
Abdul Haleem Sharar
This is not a recipe post, yet a culinary one … with a little bit about the he♥rt of New Delhi, some vintage looking pots and pans, and a dash of colour. A misty winter afternoon visit to New Delhi, or Lutyen’s Delhi as it is referred to, is never complete without a drive up Raisina Hill which leads to the gates of the Indian Presidents house or Rashtrapati Bhavan. Lutyens’ Delhi is an area in New Delhi named after the leading British architect Edwin Lutyens. He was responsible for much of the architectural design and building when India was part of the British Empire.With Edwin Lutyens, Sir Herbert Baker was instrumental in designing New Delhi. The North & South Block on either side of the Rashtrapathi Bhavan or Presidents Estate were designed by Sir Herbert Baker who contributed beautiful lotus motifs, elephants and Mughal chhatris or kiosks. There are four sandstone columns surmounted by a bronze ship sailing east, two in front of each blocks representing the dominions of the British empire namely Canada, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. {A great read is Patti’s post Our India Adventure from A to Z about her recent India visit on Worth The Whisk. She’s captured the spirit of this beautiful country in her post, followed by one on food.}
For me, no visit is also complete without a mandatory stop at Tashi’s shop in the Tibetan Market on Janpath, translated as ‘People’s Path’, one of the main roads in New Delhi’s commercial district. I endeavor to buy at least a couple of things from this quaint and intriguing little shop on each visit, an attempt to build my culinary bric-à-brac … while the kids stamp their impatient feet!
A very pleasant young man, Tashi Nima, runs his shop, Doma Copper Brass, with a passion. He knows his stuff & his prices are fixed. He has his suppliers, & is known to supply a lot of people with Indian/sub continent bric-a brac. The wares move fast & he sells a mix of old & new culinary items. Everything is handmade, including the handles, rivets , latches etc. The wares aren’t antique, but do date back to the 1910′s etc, & the artistry is entirely mesmerizing.
Tashi Numa now recognises me and each time I stop by, he mischievously dissuades me from buying up his whole place. I have to keep asking him not to show me new stuff, tempt me with pans I find irresistible etc. This time Mr PAB was with me and he just isn’t the shopping kind. He accompanies me if I ask him too, but doesn’t have the patience of a seasoned shopper… but Tashi and his Aladdin’s cave had Mr PABs eyes light up like a gazillion stars!He took roots in the shop, spellbound by the young mans stories. Tashi knows the history behind where each piece comes from, the rough time period it belongs to, the uses in that day and age, why it had been given a tin or silver cladding … fascinating!He treats each piece as his baby, talking about the origins lovingly, patiently, passionately and with in-depth knowledge! Every thing I gathered on the table had to be bought declared Mr PAB. I was horrified and Tashi knows me. He jokingly said, “Yes don’t force her. You still need money for lunch!!” Mr PAB emptied his wallet {Tashi accepts cash only} and said ‘We’ll take it all!” He LOVED the place, the nostalgia, the journey back in time, the rustic ambience…I came back thrilled with my battered looking collection. There is rustic charm in these vintage pieces, each piece holds a tale, a story, a reflection of time gone by! Just talking to Tashi, one gathers priceless bits of information. The vessels that come from the North Eastern hills are simple, while the ones from the plains have intricate patterns worked on them, as do some from Kashmir. My copper frying pan has the artists name engraved on the bottom, a feeling of belonging, a pride in his artistry.
In the field of metal work a variety of styles are seen in different parts of India. In the Ladakh area of Kashmir traditional vessels are made out of iron and brass. Many richly engraved traditional household items like bowls, samovars, plates and trays are also made in Kashmir. In “Naqasi”, elaborate floral and calligraphic designs are imprinted on copper and silver items. These items are then oxidized, which makes the design to stand out from the background.
Most copperware was clad in metal. The poor would clad their utensils with tin, and the rich with silver. The plain looking simple vessels with just usability as their main feature belonged to the common man, while the intricately worked, domed dishes like serving dishes belonged to the rich, the upper classes, a reflection of the socio-economic system that prevailed in India centuries ago. Just fascinating how much you can learn about a people and it’s culture from mere utensils! Going back in time, in many ways, the Indian society and its cuisine was as diverse as the utensil it was served in!Most of the wares are dated back 50-100 years, so aren’t a 100% safe for cooking in. Some have lost their cladding, while others look like they were never clad! As Tashi says, most of them are good to use for boiling water, or for serving non-acidic stuff in {e.g. tomato based gravies can react with the metal if kept for an extended period of time}. I buy them just for quick culinary photo shoots and importantly to add charm to my kitchen. Just having them surround me fills me with a strange sense of comfort, connect & unexplained nostalgia. There is so much power in food@pennydelosantos … via twitter!Tell me dear reader, do you have favourite shops like these that haunt you and call your name? Are you tempted to buy old rustic culinary ware? Do you find them as charming and comforting as I do? If shipping wasn’t that steep, if metal wasn’t that heavy, I would happily start an Etsy store and help others build a collection too … if!!
