“It’s tough to find a place not to like in Switzerland.”
Michele Bachmann
Here’s part II of the Travelogue of our Swiss Made Grand Tour. A 7 day road trip that led us 1000 miles through four language regions, over five Alpine passes, to eleven UNESCO World Heritage Sites as well as two biospheres and along 22 lakes. A tour that promised to provide a concentrated insight into Switzerland, with exquisite scenic views and cultural jewels.Hosted by Switzerland Tourism, and organised by NDTV Good Times, it lived up to the promise and delivered much more! An experience of a lifetime, the first part here!
As we move from road to TV, the Swiss Made Grand Tour is now on air {beginning 21st October 2015 on NDTV Good Times}
As we moved from Vaud towards Interlaken, the beginning of German influenced regions of Switzerland, the landscape changed, and with it our comfort levels. We were HAPPY!!The architecture, the countryside, and the energy, all becoming less reserved and more robust, much like the energy in the team. Our comfort levels changed as dramatically. From virtual strangers to back slapping buddies, here onwards the road trip was just a bag of laughs. The camaraderie shone, madness ruled, the laughter never ceased.
The good part was that the three of us, food, travel and auto blogger, were always on time. 7am would see 3 bright, fresh faces at the breakfast table, no matter what! Talk about Swiss precision and clockwork etc. We were often running late as a team however, yet picking up from the last post, we made Gstaad in good time. There we were treated to the quintessential fondue pot, in the best way possible! Imagine sitting on a hill slope, in idyllic surroundings, panoramic views of the Alps, crisp fresh country air, cow bells echoing in the background, stirring a pot of the yummiest fondue ever?
Gstaad is famous in India for the rolling greens in the backdrop of the Alps where a great deal of Bollywood is shot. Thing Gstaad, think Yash Chopra. Fresh Alpine air, lush pastures and herbs ensure that the cheese you find here is the best possible. A visit to the Gstaad Cheese grotto, a virtual monument to cheese, endorsed that.With over 3000 wheels of the best cheese, some very rare, are stored in -8C conditions. Descended a very steep bunch of stairs into an old converted water reservoir, it was a ‘Cheese, I love you‘ moment!Rows upon rows of neatly catalogued cheese wheels, beautifully piped music, library like shelves, this was cheese heaven. The only reason we eventually ascended was because -8C does eventually get to you if you aren’t warmly clad. We weren’t! It was 35C outdoors, and we hit the road to Interlaken where we planned to have dinner.
Drove into Interlaken at 11pm to a city that was clearly in holiday mood and wide awake. Quick pizzas later we headed for very quaint Meriengen, our stop for the night. Crawling into bed at well past 2am, groggy eyed, I was up and out at 6am because of the steeple I could see from my window, the bell that chimed every 15 minutes. It was the quaintest towns ‘I’ve ever seen, one where I probably shot the most in the least possible time. Walked down the main street….The city was waking up, very gently, not a soul in sight. Before long we were at the breakfast room. Such a warm woody country feel to it, such a vast display of rustic Swiss collectibles beautifully showcased, lace trimmings, natural light … just so pretty.
Cars packed, we headed to first to the world famous Reichenbach Falls, famous for the apparent death of fictional hero Sherlock Holmes. A steep ride up in the funicular and we were greeted by the legendary falls, and breath taking views of the countryside below. Then much to my delight, a visit to the Frontal Bakery in the town of Meiringen, famous for being the inventor of the ‘meringue’. I’ve baked a few meringues in my life. Even though I am not a huge fan of this sweet bake, the ones we had here were the best I’ve ever had, especially the one above!I was a convert. Also because of the delightful way in which it was served! Wow!! Art on a plate! Sadly, it was time to leave. Yes. Again. We had more ground to cover, loads to see.
There was more history to come by way of Ballenberg, the Swiss open-air museum. What an absolutely fascinating idea and place to put together, literally a stroll through the past. Just amazing! So much culture, history, tradition and such great grub. Out of Ballenberg towards Grindlewald and it was my turn to grab the wheel. Yes time to drive and I loved it. With views like the one above, saturated greens sweeping the countryside, wooden fences, bales of hay, wooden chalets. Took me the initial ten minutes to rewire the brain, the uber patient Neha by my side and soon it was bye bye camera, hello car! The next few days were quite the best as I drove in the mountains {first for me again}, through tunnels where 16 wheelers thundered by at high speeds like in video games, to sudden glimpses of shimmering blue waters.We stopped by at a sunset in Grindlewald and it was STUNNING. The valley below with rolling greens, clouds playing hide and seek with the mountain tops, tourists stopping by to take infinite selfies, then one call from the rest, we zipped towards the very stunning Swiss Alp Resort Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof.It was like stepping into ‘Heidi’s’ world. What an ah-mazing hotel! Early morning views of the sun kissing the Alps, of typical Swiss wooden chalets, of Neha sipping her first cuppa coffee in the balcony at 5.30am, of Sid racing up and down the stairs, then brewing me a cup of coffee.The next morning, I was met by the very sweet Bettina from the local Swiss tourism board, my driving companion, to explore Interlaken at leisure, maybe shop a little {there was no time for the latter}.
We spent ages languishing by Lake Thun watching elderly retired gentlemen soaking up the sun, playing with remote controlled sailboats and ducks lazing around like there was no tomorrow!
Lunch was overlooking the beautiful Lake of Thun. You have to love the Swiss for the great ambiance that goes to make food an unforgettable experience. Azure blue skies, shimmering water, gorgeous summer flowers, the odd seagull swooping down, the toot of the boat, sailboats being tethered…perfect atmosphere for a lazy afternoon meal. Tall delectable desserts later, with pictures to share, siesta might have been a good idea, but no rest for the wicked as Mandy gave us ‘the look’.
Herded back into cars amidst some very lame protest, we headed to yet another beautiful city, Lucerne, via the Swiss capital Bern. Yet not without stopping to enjoy the golden sunset that enveloped the countryside. It was a moment not to be missed, captured on film by the super efficient crew, and me on my cell.It was that part of the day when gold swept the countryside, cow bells echoes gently through every valley, the sky kissed the countryside and all was well with the world. The drive from there on was the best ever. Narrow country roads, high speeds, stunning countryside, lofty views from atop, we literally nosedived into Lucerne.
Lucerne, my favourite city, is a very popular tourist destination in Switzerland. If I had just one city to visit, it would probably be this one. We stayed in the heart of the city, and were fortunate to see it in every light. It’s a city that charms.
Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. Every building has so much character, rows upon rows of heritage buildings, the wood bridge, clock towers, the castle that inspired Disney, ducks, flowers, dogs, cobbled streets, cafes, trams, sailboats, and bikes. You name it, they have it.So much to do, so little time. Early morning we hopped onto cable cars to scale Mount Pilatus, Lucerne’s very own mountain. The very sweet and lively Colette introduced us to Pilatus – maker of weather, dragon’s lair, home to giants and grave of rulers. It’s one of the most legendary places in Central Switzerland and one of the most beautiful. On a clear day the mountain offers a panoramic view of 73 Alpine peaks. You must hand it to the Swiss to make every mountain so easily accessible and yet keep the country environmentally friendly!We raced down at dizzy speeds on the Fräkmüntegg, Switzerland’s longest summer toboggan run, and then the rode with the new cableway “Dragon Ride” to Pilatus Kulm. There tried our luck with the Alphorn {miserable fail for Rachit & moi, full marks for Neha who suitably impressed, surprising pass for Sid}. Grabbed a 5 minute lunch, then hopped on to the historical Pilatus Bahn, the cogwheel train that was engineered way back in 1889!
Back in the city in a short while, it was time for something quintessentially Swiss – Chocolate! So Swiss, so fine, smooth, sinful, addictive. They spoil you with delectable bites with every shot of espresso. We were about to be spoiled further.
“Experience chocolate for the first time” read the sign on the door as we giddily swung into boutique Max Chocolatier located centrally on Lucerne’s Schweizerhofquai. What a treat to the senses. Relying on the phenomenal flair for nuances and aromas, the chocolatiers blend cocoa, temper chocolate and handcraft exquisite confectionery just above the boutique. Based exclusively on natural raw materials, we were treated to an assortment of freshly made chocolate, pralines, truffles and seasonal specialties – each a work of art, though gone in seconds! With pairings like mango we could have stayed here forever….…but the old city beckoned. Bathed in the gold of the setting sun, fascinating was the word. Turn a corner from the main street overlooking Lake Lucerne and there you are, in the middle of the most beautiful half timber buildings, painted fronts, that date back several hundred years, window art, wooden doors, cobbled streets, stone fountains.Since the city straddles the Reuss River it has several bridges, the most prominent of them the wooden covered Chapel Bridge. Originally built in 1333, it was almost destroyed completely by a fire in 1993 by a discarded cigarette. Restored since, it still has a series on paintings within that depict Lucernes history. It runs by the Wasserturm, a 13th century water tower, and together the two make the most famous landmark of this stunning city.
Also famous and iconic is the St. Leodegar {Hof Church} founded in the mid-8th century, part of the monastery which in turn founded Lucerne. A Gothic church preceded the existing German Renaissance building, but was largely destroyed by fire in 1633. Only the towers, St. Mary’s altar and a few religious objects remain in the existing 17th-century building. We literally dined under the stars. It was a delicious meal, peels of laughter, yet nostalgia in the air. The trip was coming to a close! Time flies and how when you’re having fun. It was time to head to Zurich. End of the trip.
The brilliant hosts still had more for us – a lunch stopover at the most stunning Einsiedeln to have lunch and see the Einsiedeln Abbey enroute.
The Benedictine monastery houses the Black Madonna, and is an important pilgrimage point for over a 1000 years. We were privileged to get a tour by the very charming resident Father Philippe. The interiors were awe inspiring – baroque style architecture with gleaming white, gold and pastel frescos, marble altars, and organ music echoing through the abbey, and the history of the abbey fascinating. {I took a quick video of the interiors on my cel}
That Abbey houses an age old library. There too books, religious and historical, over a 1000 years old, the interiors in white and pastels, with Baroque inspiration here too.So much to take in, and we hit the road for the final leg. Not without a jump into the lake for Sid though. It was then that we realised how much we were all going to miss these days. NDTV Good Times and Swiss Tourism were fabulous hosts who offered us the most awesome Swiss experience ever – best food, best roads, best architecture, best people and the best scenery! The cutest dogs too!Good things come in small packages, and we lived to experience just that! Well, we were also pretty awesome company!!
Come share our experience! Catch the show on NDTV Good Times beginning 21st October.
{There is a repeat at 5.30pm this evening, 25th October 2015}
“Enjoy yourself. It’s later than you think.”
Chinese proverb
I was at the Hyatt Regency Delhi a few days ago to shoot part of their new menu as the season changes. It was a fun, exciting and colourful shoot as always. My last one covered the very sweet stalwart corporate pastry Chef Bungla. This time around I was in for another exciting day as I spent a large part of it shadowing the energetic, persevering and friendly Chef Rohilla, chef de cuisine at TK’SOriental Grill. With TK’S Oriental 20 Anniversary celebration starting from 21st September 2015, the timing couldn’t have been better!
It’s always a great learning experience to shadow a chef, this one seemed rather young and new. Yet once he got down to business, he sparkled! Passionate, efficient, good team leader and very easy going, he’s another feather in the Hyatt’s cap. An Indian teppanyaki specialist who has trained under the experts, Chef Rohilla adds his own set of secret sauces and creativity to this popular restaurant.
An avid fan of cricket and Hindi movies, this young spirited chef is a jovial, meticulous and down-to-earth person. With nearly 11 years of experience in kitchens across the Indian subcontinent, Chef Rohilla has built a strong foundation for his preferred cuisine type, oriental cuisine.
Tossing eggs as high as vegetables, he enjoys every minute of what he does, and the attention he gets. I watch with my fingers crossed. He’s good at it! As good as he is with stirring a mean sauce, as making a spicy chicken salad, as adding that special crispy touch to the lamb chops. The chef animatedly talks you through his experiences, his food influences and much more. As busy as he is clearly popular, his young team exudes the same positivity and enthusiasm.
Working in perfect sync, it was an absolute delight to see them get the menu together. Bit by bit, each bowl is plated with love and care, each platter lavished with attention, the aesthetics balanced beautifully, the passion shining through. Here is some of what you might savour at TK’s Oriental 20 Anniversary celebration.Ever since it’s opening in 1995, the reputation of TK’S Oriental Grill has been built on its fine food and lively atmosphere. Widely recognised as one of the first teppanyaki kitchen-style dining venues in Delhi, it is also one the oldest restaurants to serve authentic Japanese cuisine.. The live sushi preparations and the drama of the chefs in action behind the hot grills makes TK’S Oriental Grill an entertaining dining option.
Do join them as they celebrate their 20th!!
{The celebration is on from September 22 to October 1, 2015 & October 20 to 29, 2015. Only dinner. For more information, please contact Chandan on + 91 98713 45577 }
“Look past the silk-smooth chocolate, cuckoo clocks and yodelling – contemporary Switzerland, land of four languages, is all about epic journeys and sublime experiences.”
Lonely Planet
Swiss Made Grand Tour. 7 days. Road trip. Driving through the Swiss country. Hired cars. 6 cities, maybe more, hosted by Switzerland Tourism, organised by NDTV Good Times. Like a dream which kept getting better and better.
No watertight schedules. Tailor made. Something for everyone. Great company. Delicious food. Gorgeous views. Stunning architecture. Clockwork precision. Beautiful people. Adventure sports. Rolling meadows. Cow bells echoing. Bales of hay. Spires, churches, steeples that dot the entire country and are fascinating by design. Architecture inspired by the French and German that changes as you drive from region to region; every frame knocks your breath away. As you long to hang on to the wings of time, there is even more jaw dropping beauty ahead. For me, non stop gasps, endless shooting, obsessive camera overdrive. {Warning : Image heavy post ahead}
Didn’t just end there. Filmed while experiencing the tour, sometimes quite hilariously, the show will be aired maybe around September, 2015 on NDTV Good Times. We stopped at beautiful hotels for the night, woke up to lavish breakfast spreads for those who chose to indulge, quick healthy deliciousness if ‘light’ was your call.Lunched by lakes, water bodies that magically appeared around the corner within 20 minutes of each other. We drove through the countryside because that’s what the Swiss Made Grand Tour is all about. It was a ‘pinch me, am I dreaming?‘ moment when I first got an invite to the Swiss Made Grand Tour. Completely unbelievable. I was told it was a scam, a ploy to kidnap me, an April fool gone late and a million bizarre such suggestions! After all you don’t get to experience a dream road trip in Switzerland everyday. Seemed like an unreal thing, out of reach. But guess what? It happened.
Now I cannot believe it happened. Did we really live those last few days? Yes we did, captured in a million and more images that will live with me forever! Best company ever! This time I was just so glad I am a compulsive shutterbug, an obsessive ‘picture taker’.Visas arrived a day before, the IDL never materialized, no itinerary, muddled head. The unsure journey began as we all met for the first time at Delhi airport headed for Zurich, traveling business class on Swiss Air. Complete strangers. A bunch of 3 bloggers, names not disclosed, a team from NDTV, and bags wildly stuffed in panic made for a strange unsure scene. A few luxurious hours later we landed in Zurich where the very sweet and fun Ritu from Swiss Tourism Mumbai joined us. We took a connecting flight to Geneva where the journey was to begin.Checked in at the beautiful Mandarin Oriental, getting our first glimpses of culturally rich and beautiful Switzerland. Geneva, lies at the southern tip of expansive Lake Geneva. It’s the city we had our first meal together, where strangers broke bread! Back slapping and in comfort zone over a gourmet picnic, an inspiring meal on the lawns of Hôtel du Parc des Eaux-Vives, showcasing the finest local food and wine. Got our first experience of the clockwork like, very efficient public transportation in the city, armed with the amazing Geneva Transport Card. The card is a norm across Switzerland; very handy to hop on and off public transport. Geneva must sees include the iconic landmark,“Jet d’Eau”, Old Town, Reformation Wall among others. Up the next morning to a beautifully set up and delicious breakfast, one of many to come, it was time to get those cars! Yes, the road trip beckoned.From here on, we would explore this stunning country via roads, driving off piste, stopping when and where we desired. Driving here is left hand like the rest of Europe. For me, a first time ‘left side driver’, it took ten minutes or so to rewire my brain and get used to the mirror like driving. What did help is that I’ve been on the wheel for over 30 years, am a sticker for rules, and have been driving an automatic. Still it took me a while to grab the wheel, but more about that later.
After much futile racing around at the courts in Gurgaon, I didn’t get my International Driving License and was sorely disappointed. I kept just one day in hand. Not enough. Make sure you have 2-3 days in hand. On the brighter side, Switzerland doesn’t really require one. A valid license in English is good for short durations. The cars we hired – a snazzy VW black convertible {how could we not}, and an Audi Q3. Vroooom, vroom … we were ready to go.
There is something special about driving off the motorway, through winding village roads, narrow streets, rolling meadows. Oh the countryside, the houses, the landscapes, the shimmering blue lakes, the Alps, the lifestyle. Every corner you turn in picture worthy, every frame tells a story. It isn’t a country in a hurry. Every region has it’s own beauty, and even though the next few days whizzed by like a dream, I am now recounting the journey through images.Here we go. Our beautiful drive from Geneva to the canton of Vaud, in pictures {far above and below}. First glimpses of steeples, spires, geranium filled window boxes, vineyards, meadows, cattle, cars, dogs, culture, cuisine, lifestyle. Also literally how picture perfect the country is, nothing out of place. Even dilapidated abandoned houses fit right in!Vaud – part of the French speaking region of Switzerland, foothills of the Alps, by Lake Geneva. We explored Montreux and Lavourne, and a bit of Vevey, home to the milk chocolate giant Nestle, and where the Charlie Chaplin Museum is. We stayed at the well located Hotel Astra. Vevey, a 5 minute crisp walk to the gorgeous waterfront, was brimming with activity because it was Swiss National Day. Live music, food stalls, celebrations … then later spectacular fireworks to mark the event.
Aug 2nd, still had Swiss National Day celebrations on. Travel cards rule! A 15 minute bus ride to the main square at Montreux which has a strapping huge Freddie Mercury statue overlooking Lake Geneva. Montreux is known for the Montreux Jazz Festival held annually every July since 1967. It’s a beautiful walk along the lake. We were on our way to the Chillon Castle but stopped because of this …An unplanned hop off as the festivities and colourful armies beckoned, the medieval army one of my favourites. The ease of the marches, the national pride, the ‘chilled out attitude’ to the photo crazy tourists milling around, is reflective of the Suisse community. So relaxed, friendly and accommodating, we felt like one of them!
Back to our original destination, Château of Chillon, a Swiss heritage site with over a 1000 years of history. It isn’t Switzerlands most popular castle for nothing. One of the most visited in Europe, this is possibly the most important historical monument of the country. Stunning architecture, well preserved, like a page out of history, almost every window gives you a marvelous view of the lake.The underground dungeons of the castle inspired Lord Byron to write the Prisoner of Chillon, in 1816, a poem which chronicles the imprisonment of a Genevois monk, François Bonivard, from 1532 to 1536. Written in typical Byron style, the narrative describes the trials of a lone survivor of a family who has been martyred. The character’s father was burnt at the stake, and out of six brothers, two fell at the battlefield while one was burnt to death. The remaining three were sent to the castle of Chillon as prisoners, out of which two more died due to pining away. In time only the narrator lived.
The castle itself is a window into the daily life of the Court of Savoy, as also of the Bernese bailiffs. Three courtyards, huge banquet halls, a spartan Bernese chamber and much more. You can spend hours exploring each corner. We had barely an hour, soon hopped on to the boat back to the square, some shopping, coffee ice cream, posing with Freddie Mercury, walk in the lake. It was time to head for the vineyards and lunch with the rest of the gang for an amazing gastronomic experience in the vine district of Lavaux, one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
It’s vineyards as far as the eye can see, over 10,000 terraced vineyards held together by ancient stone walls built by monks over 500 years ago. Thanks to Lake Geneva and the many walls, they say that there are three suns in Lavaux: the one shining in the sky, the one reflected in the lake and, during the evening and night, the one coming from the heat accumulated within the walls during hot summer days.
Then a sublime lunch overlooking beautiful Lake Geneva, and run by a chef from our own Mumbai. Was an unusual experience to have delicious hot zucchini pakodas by the lake. We guzzled Rivella on the side, a local soft drink produced from milk whey, a by product of cheese making. It’s interesting to see how environmentally conscious the country is. Nothing goes to waste; innovation rules! Lunch for me was fresh fish fillets, filets de perche meunière, sourced from the lake, and my, was it delicious! It’s a local specialty and you can find a recipe here. I love that right across Switzerland they celebrate local seasonal produce. Also, you will find the freshest of salads with greens and micro greens on the menu. Potatoes form an inherent part of the menu – fries, rosti, hash browns etc. Thanks to the three suns, the wine here is special and different. It is made for local consumption as the vineyards are small family business, each producing their own limited editions. We stopped by for a wine degustation along a cobbled village road tasting two crisp white wines from the locally grown Chasselas, and a red wine too. My favourite was the Grand Cru Dézaley, though I failed miserably at pronunciations.We bid adieu to the canton of Vaud and headed further north towards Interlaaken.
That’s another story. Until then, please meet the crew, our very generous host and the 3 bloggers. Loads of hidden stories!
Mandakini Malla aka Mandy– NDTV. Director. Hill girl. First among equals. Boss. Perfectionist. Knows what she wants. Gets it done. ‘Wicked’ the tee reads. Is not. Nature lover. Animal lover. Great fun once the shot is canned! Walking encyclopedia. Colourful footwear. Neha Dixit – NDTV. Anchor/Host of Swiss Made Grand Tours. Hill girl, eco warrior. Animal lover. Thoroughly professional. Polite to the core. Never ruffled. Sharp, hilarious, nonsensical tongue at comfort levels. Workaholic. Great company. Peppy. Colourful! Very sporting. Also sports this odd little plait. Ritu Sharma – Deputy Director, India. Switzerland Tourism. An Indian quite Swiss. Chilled out wonderful company. Rarely ruffled, but when she is, ouch! Knows Switzerland like the back of her hand. Hat ‘forgetter’. Punctual. Knows where to find the best food and wine. Loves black. Jalaj Kathuria – NDTV. Senior camera person. Calmest in the group. Quiet. Thorough gentleman. Never an animated moment other than a sudden hearty laugh at the stupidest of jokes. Supportive to the core. Hears it all, never says a word. We heard there is another side. Yet to see it. S Arun Kumar – NDTV. Strong shoulders camera person. Social media activist. Drama Queen King. Hilarious when in the mood. Ready for encore. Baby face. Bee bitten. Loves Indian food. Dheeraj Hellan – NDTV. Omnipresent camera person. Call me ‘D’. That says it all. Then again. Charming to the core. Loves to drive. Couldn’t this time; that’s another story. Great behind the camera, even better in front. Fun all the way. Hindi, urdu, english…words roll off the tongue like butter. Chillon? Another story. He knows! Siddhartha Joshi – Travel blogger. Dreamer. Cracker of a guy. Can get you to spin a tale. Peoples person. Quite the wanderer. Hyper. Super sporty. Super fun. Nonsensical banter person. Predictably unpredictable. Thorough gentleman. Great company. Selfie lover. Self ‘in the air’ portrait lover. Full LS paisa wasool! Rachit Hirani – Auto Blogger. Vroom Vroom. Calm, composed, mature. Knows evrything that walks the road! Been there, done everything. That’s until you scratch beneath the surface. 1000 watt smile. Baby face. Parsi accent. Thorough gentleman. Mumbai lad. Super hero. Car selfie addict. Patient as can be, and great company.
“The more you know, the more you can create. There’s no end to imagination in the kitchen.”
Julia Child
So I made Smoked BhopaliKöfte yet again a few days ago, this time a twist of taste with Turkish spices. I thought I’d shared the original recipe earlier, but just found it in my drafts! So here it is again, a recipe from an old aunt in Lucknow, one that is infinitely adaptable to taste as most curries are. This time it’s inspired by Turkish cuisine. Köfte or kifte, or kofte aka meatballs are found in possibly every cuisine and across different cultures. It is interesting to follow the trail to see how different cuisines have their own version of simply put, minced meal balls. India offers a smattering of vegetarian koftas as well – paneer, lauki, banana etc.
Kofta is a meatball or meatloaf and is a part of Jordanian, Albanian, Afghan, Azerbaijani, Arab, Armenian, Balkan, Bangladeshi, Greek, Indian, Israeli, Iranian, Kurdish, Pakistani and Turkish cuisine. In the simplest form, koftas consist of balls of minced or ground meat—usually beef or lamb—mixed with spices and/or onions. In Bangladesh, Pakistan, Turkey and Iran, koftas are usually made of lamb, beef, mutton or chicken, whereas Greek and Cypriot varieties are usually made of pork, beef, veal or mixtures of them.
One of my favurite cusuines is of course Turkish cuisine, very adaptable to the Indian palette, very flavourful and fun. Takes me to back to Turkish flatbread pizzas or pides I made a while ago, or these Turkish Adana Kebabs which I make quite often. Turkey, once widely acknowledged as the centre of the ancient world, is a gateway between the civilizations that surrounded the Mediterranean and the Far East. It has long been called home by enterprising and hardy traders who introduced exotic spices and flavours between the two civilizations. Fertile land encouraged a varied cuisine, rich in meat, grains, seafood, fruit and vegetables.
[print_this]Recipe: Smoked BhopaliKöfte
Summary: Lightly spiced, moist, flavourful lamb mince Smoked Bhopali Köftewith a Turkish influence. Enjoy them in this Indian style curry, else grill them as kebabs if you like. Serves 4
Prep Time: 20 minutes Total Time: 1 hours Ingredients:
Köfte
500g lamb mince
1 small onion, grated
4 cloves garlic, minced {reserve 1/2 tsp}
1tbsp sumac powder
1 tsp paprika
1tsp garam masala
2 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped
1 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped
2 tbsp oil for frying
For smoking
Piece of coal for smoking
Few drops of ghee
Betel leaf or small piece of aluminum foil
Gravy
3 onions {1chopped, 2 minced}
1tsp ginger paste
1 tsp garlic paste
2 tbsp thick yogurt
1/2 tsp red chili powder
2 tsp coriander / dhania powder
1/2 tsp garam masala powder
Method:
Köfte
In a large bowl, mix together the mince, onions, garlic, sumac, paprika, garam masala and salt.
Heat the coal over an open flame until red hot. Make a hole in the mound of minced meat, cover with a pan/betel leaf or piece of aluminum foil. Put hot coal on the leaf, topped by the reserved half tsp of garlic paste. Quickly drizzle the few drops of melted ghee over, and immediately cover the sizzling coal with a small bowl /steel katori pressed into the mince. Cover the bowl with a heavy lid, and leave to smoke for 15-20 minutes.
Now discard the coal and betel leaf, hand mix in the chopped fresh coriander and mint, and make small meatballs/köfte.
Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy bottom pan, and gently fry the köfte over medium high flame until golden. Reserve in a covered bowl.
Gravy
In a bowl, mix the minced onions and all the ingredients for gravy, except chopped onion and velvetier.
Heat the remaining oil in the same pan and fry chopped onion until golden brown.
Add the onion and masala mix. Add salt to taste and simmer covered until the masala is roasted and the oil leaves sides.
Gently slide in the köfte one by one, stir gently to coat and simmer for a further 10-15 minutes.
Sprinkle over with velvetier if using.
Serve hot with naan, parathas, rice etc, with a salad on the side.
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If you get a chance to travel through Turkey, do try to make a point of seeking out traditional food, and we don’t mean to stick only (pun intended) with their mouthwatering kebabs. They have a heritage of well over 1300 years of history and a long and storied tradition in the making of delicious, must-try Turkish dishes sourced from the best of local ingredients. Here are some typical Turkish dishes that you should make a point to sample when you are fortunate enough to drop by for a visit via last minute package holiday deals with the family. Holidays also allow you to put your feet up and relax while you enjoy the delicious local dishes and delicacies on offer:
6 Must Try Turkish Dishes
1. Lahmacun translates from its Arabic roots as dough with meat, coming originally from Syria. The meat is minced lamb or beef with chopped onions, that has been cooked and flavoured with spices, usually cinnamon, allspice and chilli, although each recipe will be someone’s family tradition. This is spread over a flaky, flat bread, similar to pizzas, but traditionally rolled up to eat on the move, long considered as one of the original fast food in Turkey.
2. Menemen is renowned by travelers throughout Turkey as a hearty, tasty meal that sets you up for the day. The base is chopped onions, peppers and tomatoes, simmered in a frying pan with some paprika and black pepper, topped with eggs, which are either cooked whole, or stirred into the dish. Another very budget-friendly Turkish comfort food.
3. Börek are all essentially a form of pie, with a filling wrapped in pastry, usually containing meat, cheese, potato or spinach, or a combination of one or more of these, and come in a variety of shapes and styles. There are various shops that sell the pies, but the best come from specialist Börek shops, which are worth seeking out for your first experience of this dish. Ask for the house specialty and you are sure not to be disappointed as their pride and reputation will be at stake.
4. Köfte are a type of kebab made by forming a delicious mix of minced meat and spices, typically lamb and cumin, on to skewers, before broiling them over an open flame. You will find these all over Turkey, which is always a good sign, where they are eaten served with pitta bread, or served with a salad or in a fresh tomato sauce.
5. Bulgur Pilavi is similar to a rice pilaf but made with bulgar (cracked) wheat instead, and is a typical central Anatolian dish. The grains themselves have a pleasant, nutty flavour, but they simply form the base for a wide variety of additional ingredients, most commonly onions, tomato, peppers and mint.
6. Dolmas refers to a style of dishes that are very popular throughout the country. Meaning in Turkish simply ‘stuffed’ they cover a range of vegetables with either a meat or vegetable filling. The meat ones tend to be served hot and the non-meat cold.
“Good food is very often, even most often, simple food.”
Anthony Bourdain
Ptasie_mleczko or Birds Milk Cake …my adaptation. With a name as intriguing as that, I quickly jotted it down as my Ukranian friend translated it out of her mothers cookbook in Sydney earlier this month. There is an eternal charm in handwritten recipes of times gone by, this recipe book is from the 1960’s. Neat, and well explained, the recipes all written In Ukrainian, talk to you, explaining each step. The measures are often in glasses from the Old Soviet Union, standardised at 200ml, a measure my sweet friend continues to use as her mother once did.
Ptasie Mleczko (Polish) is a soft chocolate-covered candy filled with soft meringue (or milk soufflé). In Russian it is called ptichye moloko (птичье молоко) and in Romanianlapte de pasăre. All these names literally mean “bird’s milk” or crop milk, a substance somewhat resembling milk, produced by certain birds to feed their young. However, this is not origin of the name; rather, ptasie mleczko is also a Polish idiom meaning “an unobtainable delicacy”. In Poland, Jan Wedel, owner of the E. Wedel Company, developed the first Ptasie mleczko in 1936. Wedel’s inspiration for the name of the confectionery came from his voyages to France, when he asked himself: “What could bring greater happiness to a man who already has everything?” Then he thought: “Maybe only bird milk.”
This must be one of the quickest birthday cakes I’ve ever made. And yet another very very delicious one. You can find my coffee take on it at the bottom as Ulyana decided to bake one for us the night before we were due to fly out. No pictures of the cake in Sydney as we were racing against time. I didn’t get too many pictures of the cake I baked here too as coming home after a vacation is always far too busy. It was however tasty as hell!!
Our trip Down Under was great fun! All trips there always are! Sydney has been one of our fave places to go when possible, and this was our fourth trip. Like every earlier trip, this too was packed and flew by like a heartbeat. This trip was short, just a week ‘long’, but we had a great time. With hosts as good as ours, the days went by driving from mountains to beaches, with great food and drinks thrown in. Mindless banter, endless shopping what with the daughter with us, too much food, overindulgence … ad before we knew it, time to fly back.
We flew in comfortably, sleeping all the way on Cathay Pacific, with a short stopover in HKG. There too the daughter shopped till we dropped for 3 whole hours. Hurriedly dug into some delicious street food, raced back to the hotel, showered and hopped onto the Sydney flight. A long 9 hour flight, some great food, Aussie wines too, Pamela’s book kept me entertained and nostalgic as we landed there into a crisp 4C at 6am. We were really blessed to see great weather the few days we were there.
We’ve done most of the iconic must see places on the earlier trips covering The Rocks, Opera House, Botanical Gardens, Tiranga Zoo {to date one of my sons fave places}, Butterfly Park, Harbour Bridge, Harry’s original van at Wooloomooloo, the Blue Mountains … and so much more. Yet a visit to the Blue Mountains is a quintessential part of Sydney for us, and that’s where we headed pretty soon. It as a freezing COLD day but we managed to stop by some breathtaking spots, taking in the gift that only nature can offer. Knocks your breath A W A Y!
We went off piste, little walkways dot the Blue Mountains, each with a signboard telling you how long it takes to get to the destination, level of ease …and more! There’s loads to do. Did I mention stunning beaches? Yes those too!Beautiful beaches, birds, crabs, shells, nature, left over pizza from the Italian pizzeria from the night before, chilled beer though not as chilly as the cold winds, great company … couldn’t have asked for more.Of course I shopped some too. It’s always good to know the ‘right’ people, who in turn know the right places…and a Sunday morning market later, I was back a happy camper. There was loads I could have gladly bought to ‘prop’ up the blog, but sense had to prevail. It was a struggle I tell you!
No trip to Sydney for me is complete without a visit to Victoria’s Basement. Though short on time, we did a quick walk through, a near impossible task in itself given the treasure trove you can find under a roof! I shopped a wee bit more here and there, constantly thinking of how much I could stuff back into suitcases. You know! Oh the choices we have to make!
With travel comes food, and most good memories are tied to taste! Knowing the right folk is great! It’s satiating to explore a country through it’s cuisine, and then comes the added bonus of exploring the flavours they brought from their native lands. So we were spoilt. Ukranian cusine filled our days alongside Aussie quintessential. Gourmet sausages on the barbeque that made the tastiest hotdogs, slow cooked {read dropping off the bone good} lamb-shanks with chickpeas and spinach, Caesar salad galore, smoked Polish sausages and cold cuts, Ukranian potato latkes with garlic and sour cream, artisan pizzas, more Aussie reds, red wine too, pancakes for breakfast with whipped cream and local preserves, cheese in every avatar to die, then more local artisanal unripened cheese as if that was not enough …Sweet stuff too, though no pictures. Fresh cherry strudel, macadamia and caramel ice cream, divine coffee gelato, berry gelato too, and then of course this beautiful Birds Milk Cake flavoured with the organic lemon from the yard the night before we flew out. I dreamt of the cake as I slept on the flight back home. I knew I just had to make one soon, my pet flavours dancing in my head.
That’s just what I did the next day for the son’s birthday. As we melted into a sizzling North Indian summer at 45C, desperately trying to hang on to memories of 12C, the crisp and beautiful Aussie winter we left behind, Ihit baking mode. This cake bridged the gap beautifully, and that is what good food & travel is all about. Makes you come full circle, flavours and memories sharing a plateful! What a delightful {and delicious} journey this food business is!
Recipe: Ptasie_mleczko or Birds Milk Cake
Summary: Ptasie_mleczko or Birds Milk Cake finds it’s roots possibly in the Old Soviet Union. A preparation for the light as air filling quite as intriguing as the name ‘birds milk’, it’s a moist and delicious cake that takes well to added flavours. Make ahead and chill for the flavours to mature. It tastes wonedrful as a fresh tray bake as originally intended to be too. Serves 8
Prep Time: 30 minutes Total Time: 1 hour {plus cooling and chilling} Ingredients:
Cake
130g butter
200ml / 1 glass brown vanilla sugar
3 eggs
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
200ml / 1 glass all purpose flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
2 tbsp cocoa powder
Filling
150g butter
400ml / 2 glasses milk
100ml/ 1/2 glass sugar
3 tbsp semolina /suji
2tbsp instant coffee
1 tbsp Kahlua {optional}
Topping
50g dark couverture chocolate
100ml low fat cream
1 tbsp honey
White chocolate shavings to garnish
Method:
Cake
Preheat the oven to 180C. Line 2 X 8″ round baking tins with parchment paper.
Sift together the flour, baking powder, cocoa and salt. Reserve.
Beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one by one, ten the vanilla extract.
Slowly fold in the dry mix. Turn batter into tins and bake for approximately 30 minutes until a tester comes out clean. Cool in tins for 15-20 minutes then cool completely on rack.
Filling
Make this while the cake is baking {or a few hours before too}
Place the sugar, semolina, coffee and milk in a heavy bottom pan. Stir over low heat until the mixture thickens. Leave to cool completely.
When the cake is ready and cool, make the remaining filling.
Place butter and sugar in a large bowl and beat until smooth and fluffy. Beat in the coffee semolina and Kahlua if using.
Assemble
Place one layer on serving platter and keep in place with an 8″ dessert ring. ladle over half the filling and top with second layer. Top with remaining filling, cover and refrigerate for a few hours {or overnight} for flavours to mature.
Take the ring off gently, top with chocolate ganache {recipe follows} and white chocolate shavings.
Chocolate Ganache
Place ingredients in a heat proof bowl and microwave 1 minute at a time until the chocolate has almost melted. Stir until smooth and glossy. Cool to room temperature before use.
“My two rules of cooking: keep it fresh and keep it simple.”
Mike Isabella
It did seem like a daunting idea to jump onto a chefs bandwagon at 7am. Yet with an itinerary that promised some fun unlocking of a destination, the journey was full of promise. That it was going to be so so fun was something I didn’t envisage. I would do this again in a heartbeat, so what if the mercury rose to almost 50C that afternoon as we literally spilled into the fish market! This is just a peep into the day we spent with the young, very affable, energetic, creative and impressive Tanveer Kwatra, the executive chef at Le Méridien Gurgaon.
We joined Exec Chef Tanveer Kwatra on a typical day as he took us on a culinary journey unlocking CR Park, microgreens, exotic seldom used local produce like phalsa berries and mango ginger etc. Later, he went on to create magic with the food we bought!
A step into the lobby, and the mood is set. So pleasing to the senses, what welcomes you is a visual delight, a celebration of art! A Pareesh Maity work greets you as you enter, warmth exuding from the yellow figurine. A number of sculptures by Satish Gujral add to the character, as does the large art wall behind the reception which illustrates natural forces weathering rock shores and land and has been beautifully depicted by PR Daroz.The hotel has numerous art pieces which starts from the Tree of Life at the entrance by Vibhor Sogani to the chrome installation at the lobby that depict the transformation from day to night. Creative, creative, creative …it’s a feel good ambiance! ’twas a cracker of a start to the day as the three of us, Sangeeta, Ruchira and I, landed up in the well lit airy lobby, to be greeted by a bright and cheerful Tanveer. He’s one of those people you take an instant liking to – easygoing, friendly, enthusiastic, and as we learnt through the day, large hearted and very talented. With Eye Opener shots that offered intriguing local flavours – ginger coffee {very new to me & refreshing} and mango jeera, we soon headed for a culinary tour of the property. Our first stop was Latest Recipe, the signature dining restaurant at the hotel. It offers bright, picturesque views of the garden outside the hotel and draws in natural daylight that lights up the space. We returned to the venue for all our meals that day!
With a delicious double espresso shot and a smattering of fresh tropical fruit to awaken our senses, we headed into the chefs den. Well organised work spaces, the men were all busy at work. With the breakfast service already underway at Latest Recipe, the lunch menu was being prepped. We were in the ‘Indian’ kitchen, such a delicious space. Local produce, native ingredients, native cooking utensils and methods of cooking. Butter paneer, dhungaar-e-butter chicken {the gravy smoky, earthy, lip-smacking good; very rich too}, a kachchi gosht ki biryani had our taste buds on red alert. The chef of course got dizzily busy {was hard to keep up with him} readying up a line of the Le Meridien Gurgaons signature breakfast for us. Duck Khurchan Dosa with Mulligatawny Soup, Brioche Burger, Crab Omelette! Latest Recipe at it’s very best. Great beginning. Need I say more?
Latest Recipe : An all-day dining restaurant featuring global cuisine presents guests with a sensory world cuisine experience. Located at the Lobby Level, the restaurant exudes a warm contemporary feel and a visual delight for the eyes; the bespoke music, styled to suit the mood of the day, the alluring aroma of food wafting through the restaurant, authentic & delectable world cuisine. It revolves around five interactive show kitchens displaying a sumptuous array of food, a dining concept that brings the excitement of cooking from the chefs.
What strikes you is the creativity at every meal, the small touches, the rustic and earthy feel, above all the chefs personal connect with how he presents things. Bursts of colour from Stappu and Le Crueset dance in the daylight, fresh fruit to make your heart sing, eggs sitting sweetly in ‘nests, ceramic baskets of spice, live counters functioning.
A young lad from Agra who has studied Down Under, he gathers experiences from as far as Fiji to closer at home doing Marwari wedding cuisines, his stories reflect how he picks up and learns on the go. For someone who is as enthusiastic about Agra ki dalmoth and flash fried prawns, Benaras ki chaat and okonomiyaki from Japan, food talk lights up his eyes! Mind you, through the conversation, nothing escapes his eye, what his staff are doing, if anything is incorrectly placed, a runaway crumb. The place runs like clockwork.
It was a packed day. As you read on, {LONG POST ALERT}, you will wonder how much we packed into a day. The chefs day was busier actually. He took loads of time out for us. Before lunch we took a recce of his well organised and well maintained stores, , we sneaked into the pastry room, watched the pastry chef make a TON of choux, piped some wriggly eclairs, inhaled the sweet smell of soft buns baking, then saw them get slathered with butter, got heady with the aromas of lavender and tonka beans … we were welcomed into every nook and corner!That worked up an appetite and ‘those’ colourful dishes with the lunch menu beckoned our famished selves. We ate right off the kitchen counter! Roasted thyme garlic pumpkin with Evoo and feta {we polished it off}…I think it’s the best pumpkin I’ve ever had. Potato daphnoise, fish in a citrusy burre blanc, meaty mushrooms with chicken were just some of the fare. We couldn’t stop eating, pampered under the chefs indulgent gaze…
…and yes, love him or hate him, he swallowed anchovies with great pleasure!
Rolling out were colourful Le Crueset dishes prettily dished with dal, smoked butter chicken, gobhi masala, butter paneer…so much more. In the meantime the kachcha gosht ki Hyderabadi biryani that started cooking on dum in the morning was ready and was being lavished with ghee, saffron, vevetier. We dug in. WOW!! One of the best I’ve had, very authentic, fragrant and done right. On the side, their was a spicy, bursting with flavours mirchi ka saalan!
A quick pit stop at the lab, nice and neat, where food testing is carried out, and we tripped along to stop by at the cafeteria. What a well organised place, with huge vessels with a finger licking good dal, chicken, paneer, boondi raita and the works. Stuffed as we were, we queued up to taste the communal lunch served to all the staff. Completed with refreshing glasses of Roohafza and crisp cucumber, pickles too, it was yet another meal to remember! We were joined in the cafeteria by David Hopcroft, GM Le Méridien, Gurgaon.
With the day flying by, it was time to hop into cars and head into the city. Tanveer was going fish and vegetable shopping to CR Park and even though it was 47C, or more like 50C, we leapt to it. I have a never ending fascination with India {in particular Indian markets and sadhus in no particular order}. My first time in CR Park, my first time at the fish bazaar, and I was fascinated!
Later when I shared a few fishy images on FB and IG, I was welcomed by the local Bong community as one of their own! “full Bengali accredited” as one said. I was loving it. Tanveer bought loads of fish for dinner that night – hilsa, seabass, rohu, sardines. He was in his element!
Being a non Bong meant getting the right royal ignore when I tried to buy some block printed fabric. Was far more successful shopping for kasundi and earthenware matkis after we dug into the best mishti doi ever on Ruchira’s recommendation. She knows!! Tanveer bought some more mishti doi for a surprise back at the hotel, while we continued the food indulgence finally wrapping up with an addictive radhabollobhi kachauri. Sigh, the deliciousness!Just a little more shopping, vegetables this time, and the spring in ‘his’ step was infectious. There too he was in his element – mango ginger, jamrul or wood apples, falsa/phalsa berries. There was a glint in his eye as he thought of what he would make with his loot! One more stop on the way back, a small microgreens unit, where we picked up some beautiful beet greens etc, and we headed back to Le Méridien Gurgaon.While we were ready to expire and were packed off to a much needed and very relaxing spa, the good Tanveer zipped off to get dinner ready. How we were pampered all day! Daylight was ebbing, but not our appetite! An hour or so later, back to the ‘now bathing in sunset’ Latest Recipe, we were gobsmacked to see his creativity. Out of the box thinking, fresh ideas, great pairing, perfect balance of flavours, a party on the palette I tell you! Here’s what he bought that day … and here’s what he did…
Falsa berries – Burrata with Balsamico Scented Falsa and Ciabata Toast
Jamrul & Mango Ginger – Cabbage Onion and Edamame Bean Salad with Jamrul and Mango Ginger, Ponzu Dressing and Wakame
Seabass & Mango Ginger – Pan fried Seabass with Mango Ginger Chutney and Pan Roasted Sweet Potato
School Shrimps & kasundi – Crispy School Shrimps with Kasundi and Apricot Sauce and Burnt Garlic
Mishti Doi – Mishti Doi Eclaire topped with White Chocolate and Popped Amaranth
Well here’s what we did. W I P E D I T A L L C L E A N!! Not a crumb left. I thought I wasn’t a fish person. I’m not, but am certainly a cooked by Tanveer ‘fish person’! Gosh those school shrimps in the kasundi and apricot sauce with burnt garlic. Mind blowing flavours. Each and every dish was outstanding. I could eat that burrata all day. Paired with falsas & pine nuts, it was to die for! The edamame bean salad saw the flavours waltz off the palette, making magic with textures. And the sea bass with pan roasted sweet potato and beet greens was brought ALIVE with a sharp chili mango ginger ‘kutti’ chutney. AMAZING stuff and so well presented!
…and an amazing way to finish the day! I LOVED that there is huge focus on local produce, an inclusion of native flavours in the menu, that as far as possible, the ingredients are locally procured. There is a system in place, efficiency is high and the place runs like clockwork. It was a day I will remember for a long time, twelve hours that flew by in a heartbeat in the peak of Indian summer!
